Apprenticed as a woman’s bespoke tailor and …tired
Hi there… remember me? It’s been forever since I last posted.
I have been struggling to write the last few months. I worked so long on the same project, Marie Jokerette’s dress, that after a while, I couldn’t convince myself that anyone would be interested in continuing to hear about the same project.
So even though I kept taking pictures and even started a few articles, I never finished them. I don’t know if anybody was following the project and reading the – admittedly – long, over-detailed and complicated posts I was writing. Or if anybody wants to see like 10 posts on the same project. Please tell what you think.
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In other news, I started an apprenticeship here in Germany as a women’s bespoke tailor this September. This is a unique opportunity – and something I’ve been avoiding for 6 years.
You see, here in Germany, tailoring (and many other technical/artisan jobs) are taught in a three-year program of apprenticeship to a tailor. This is supplemented by classes in design and the technical intricacies of fabric, fibers, patternmaking, etc. Not anyone can call themselves a tailor, or costume designer, or stitcher – they need to complete the apprenticeship and pass exams to be certified.
![unikat_shop](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Unikat_Shop.jpg)
I waffled for a long time before going for the apprenticeship because I already have training through my theatre degree and years of experience in theatre costume shops in the US. As I saw it in my early twenties, doing a 3-year apprenticeship seemed like wasting years of my life.
However, I’ve logged years of working in service jobs since then, so now I see things differently. Spending a couple years in an apprenticeship to do what I love doesn’t seem like too long. Nevertheless, it is stressful to trade in my steady paycheck for a stipend that is a fraction of what even a minimum-wage job pays *le sigh*.
And because open apprenticeship positions are few and far between nowadays, I’ve got a two-hour commute, each direction, using public transport. So I’ve been spending 70 hours a week commuting and working, a grueling schedule, powered mostly by instant coffee, that has eaten all of my free time. There is an end in sight – I’m working towards getting a German driver’s license by the end of 2016. Then I will have only an hour commute in each direction.
But enough complaining. I’ve been in the apprenticeship for 2 months and I’m trying to learn as much as I can. And I’m finding that it has a different emphasis than my theater training. For one thing, the apprenticeship is focused on very traditional sewn details. To start with, I’ve been practicing hand-sewn buttonholes, bound buttonholes, arrowhead tacks – all new to me, since these time-consuming techniques wouldn’t even be visible to an audience when the actor was on-stage. (At an opera I worked at, our mantra was “”50 feet and an orchestra pit” whenever we got caught up in miniscule details.)
![handmade-buttonholes-arrowhead-tacks](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Handmade-Buttonholes-Arrowhead-tacks.jpg)
On the other hand, the tailor I’m apprenticed for is very detail-oriented. None of the pockets in this picture are up to snuff, for instance:
(Which is not a complaint. I’m here to learn. Otherwise, what would be the point?)
![double-welt-pockets](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Double-Welt-Pockets.jpg)
![welt-pockets-closeup](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Welt-Pockets-Closeup.jpg)
The apprenticeship is focused around making classic garments: blouses, skirts, blazers. I’ve made two blouses so far. My first one was striped with contrasting ruched details.
The tailor chose the fabric and the design (it’s hers to wear now), though I designed the pocket myself.
![lilac-blouse-cuffs-copy](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Lilac-Blouse-Cuffs-copy.jpg)
![lilac-blouse-collar](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Lilac-Blouse-Collar.jpg)
![lilac-blouse-button-placket-copy](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Lilac-Blouse-button-placket-copy.jpg)
The second blouse I made was the same pattern in a bolder print. It has fewer extra embellishments, but I got to design the pocket on this one as well.
![yellow-blouse-cuffs](https://www.buttonandsnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Yellow-Blouse-Cuffs.jpg)
So that’s my life at the moment, at least until I get my driver’s license. I’ve been slowly inching my way through a couple of my own projects on the side, and I’ll try to post about these sometime soon.
Meredith Newman
Super awesome, Helen! As someone who spent 3 years in residency on a tiny stipend in order to do what she loves, I can promise you it is worth the investment! You won’t regret it! Great job!!!!
Helen
Thanks for the encouragement Meredith!
Bernice
This sounds terrific! Thank you for sharing these details. I look forward to reading more…when you get the chance to post! Good luck and hang in there with that commute.
Meigan
Wow, what a great opportunity and experience. I’d love to see more details as your apprenticeship continues.
Holly Brown
Hello! I recently began following you, lured here by the Jokerette thingy. I don’t know for everyone else, but I follow a lot of seamstresses for different reasons and ten detailed posts about different bits of a garment sound very interesting to me. Being a usabound sewist myself, the apprenticeship sounds fascinating as well!!
Personally, I say, write what you want! People will read or not, as they so choose but your opinion matters most.